If you see just one painting in Copenhagen

I love visiting art galleries, but there’s something special for me in returning to one piece again and again in all the cities I have lived.

In Copenhagen, that piece is Édouard Manet’s Absinthe Drinker, housed in the Carlsberg Glyptotek. Located in central Copenhagen, right by Tivoli and the main square Rådhuspladsen, the Glyptotek is a gem in the city’s art scene. Manet’s Absinthe Drinker—a painting that marked a significant point in his career—holds a special place in my heart.

Although often associated with the Impressionists, Manet’s work transcends simple categorization. His style is uniquely his own, with an audacious brilliance that changed the trajectory of modern art. Born in Paris in 1832, Manet was part of the controversial Salon des Refusés exhibition in 1863, where his work (and that of other artists) was rejected by the traditional Salon but displayed in a groundbreaking alternative show. This marked a clear departure from the classical academic style that dominated the art world at the time, and it laid the foundation for the more experimental approaches of modern art.

In Absinthe Drinker, Manet rejected the idealized forms and subjects of classical art, focusing instead on an unpolished, very real moment. He captured a moment in time that was far from the romanticized or heroic subjects that were usually favored. The man in the painting isn’t a noble figure or an idealized portrait but an everyday character, caught in a mundane yet powerful moment of his life. For me, that’s what makes the piece so powerful—it speaks to my own love of the mundane, of finding beauty in the detail and simplicity of everyday life. Manet found something extraordinary in what others might have overlooked, and that has influenced me in my own work.

It’s hard not to be mesmerized by the bottle in Absinthe Drinker. The minimalism of the brushstrokes, the surety with which Manet captures the light glinting off the glass—it’s all so direct and powerful. The drinker’s expression, too, speaks volumes. He’s not just a figure in the painting; he’s a character with a story, one that you can imagine unfolding beyond the canvas.

There’s a quiet intensity in this piece, one that draws me back just to visit The Glyptotek. It’s just one of those paintings that, no matter how many times I see it, never ceases to leave me in awe. And, for me, the Glyptotek is a perfect place to experience it—right in the heart of Copenhagen, and a lovely piece of architecture and interior. They also do a nice cup of coffee and a cake!

Louisiana Art Gallery Copenhagen visit

Louisiana Art Gallery is not in Copenhagen, but for art enthusiasts visiting the city, the 40-minute train journey up the coast is a well worth making. Beyond the vibrant cityscape, this gallery offers a serene escape, marrying the beauty of its architecture, lush gardens, and coastal views with an exceptional modern art experience.

The gallery hosts a rotating array of exhibitions that are as pleasantly diverse as they are inspiring and thought-provoking. Nestled within this ever-changing landscape, a significant portion of the permanent collection stands as a testament to artistic brilliance. Notably, the superb Giacometti sculpture collection steals the spotlight, if you are lucky in your timing, they have some of his drawings too. There is COBRA art, Warhols, Dubuffet, Kleins, and Hockney masterpieces seamlessly weave into the gallery’s narrative, with Miro and Moore sculptures (Henry, not Roger) gracing the outdoor gardens—a testament to the gallery’s commitment to providing a holistic modern art experience.

I have taken guests who were not particularly into art and they have loved the experience. The gallery’s restaurant cafe is a lovely place to engage in a bit of middle-class Scandinavian observation. Frequented by a cosmopolitan crowd, the ambiance is often enriched by the presence of Swedes arriving via Helsingør or the Copenhagen crossing. It’s a culinary and cultural experience that adds an extra layer to your artistic journey.

To embark on this adventure, simply get your train ticket from the main train station (next to Tivoli) known as Hovedbanegården or via the ticket machines. Your destination: Humlebæk. A five-minute stroll from Humlebæk station, just follow the stream of fellow travelers. No one is going anywhere else in Humlebæk.

Whether you are an art connoisseur, a casual appreciator, or someone seeking a unique cultural excursion, Louisiana Art Gallery provides an enriching experience that transcends boundaries. You won’t regret immersing yourself in this artistic haven up the coast.